Modern cosmetics can be used different types of acids. She is active in the Salons, in the stock of professional cosmetics, including creams, lotions and tonics for home use.
Acids are natural components of the skin and in the processes of cellular metabolism and gas exchange. Reduction of the concentration of autologous acids with increasing age, interrupts the normal life activity of cells and is one of the factors for the aging of the organism. Professional treatments and home care to fill in the loss and support to the necessary concentration of the substances necessary for the skin. The speech on the use of Alpha is usually - and Beta hydroacids.
In the group of the carboxylic acids of a wide range of services includes not strongly acidic substances, integral content in the composition of carboxylic groups. Thanks to the diversity of its properties and characteristics, many of them will be successful in the aesthetic medicine and the production of cosmetic products
| Types of acids | Example | Properties | Application |
| Greasy | |||
| Saturated | Myristic acid Palmitinovaja Stearic acid | Emulsifiers, Stabilizers | On the basis of these acids are many varieties of soap. Acids and their esters are used in the manufacture of cosmetics as stabilizers of emulsions. |
| Unsaturated | Linoleic acid Linolenic acid Oleic acid | Fill the deficit of epidermal lidido and strengthen the epidermal barrier. Thus, a protection film, prevent the evaporation of moisture from the skin. Antioxidants are. | Enclosed in night and day creams, milk for cleansing the skin. |
| Fruit | |||
| Alpha-hydroacids(AHA -acids) | Glycol Lactic acid Amber Lipoic acid Vigilantem Malic acid Citric acid Pyruvic acid, and others. | Hyper keratosis, eliminate the conditions for the increase of the skin moisture. The production of ceramide to stimulate collagen fibers. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. | In concentrations up to 10% in cream, Lotion, Tonic , used in cosmetics, such as for home care. In high concentrations, conditions for the implementation of exfoliating and superficial peels are valid only in the cabin. |
| Beta hydroacids(BHA-acid) | Salicylic acid | Peeling of the Horny layer, reduces the production of sebum, and dirt from the pores. Anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory. | Is for scrubs even as a scrub or as a basis for complex medio scrubs - Gessner or retinoic. It is used in creams, lotions, facial toner for oily and problematic skin. |
| Polyhydroxylated (PHA) | Gluconic acid | A high molecular mass, has a gentle effect without irritation. Prevents aging, stimulates the production of Elastin, increases the protective properties of the skin. Blocked up to 50 percent of UV radiation. | Part of the Anti-aging skin care program with increased sensitivity. |
| Trihloruksusnaya acid(TCA) | Penetrates acids deeper into the skin than fruit. Principle of operation - coagulation of protein. | For medio TCA peel. | |
Fruit-AHA-acid -, water -, and BHA is fat - soluble. This fundamental difference determines the application of acids in cosmetics. The most famous of BHA-acid - salicylic acid penetrates the Lipid barrier deep into the pores, therefore it can glands influence on the sebum and reduce the excessive activity. The basic purpose - the treatment of acne and blackheads, rejuvenation, oily and impure skin. AHA acids are better suited to care for skin with photodamage, age spots, age-related hyperkeratosis and dryness. Polyacids PHA assigned when the sensitive skin in the Stress, with low local immunity.
Glycolic acid in cosmetics is the most effective and, therefore, at the very least of all AHA-acids. Gained great popularity after they proved their ability to increase the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen in the Dermis. An additional Plus glycolic acid is a relatively cheap production from sugar cane. Dermatologists at the Medical University of Wakayama (Japan) demonstrated the effectiveness of high concentrations of this substance in the treatment of severe forms of acne. Glycolic acid is also used in cosmetics successfully applied to increase the moisture in all layers of the skin.
E. I. Hernandez, in his book "the Cosmetic Peeling" refers to a number of reputable studies in cosmetics, which reported on the application of glycolic acid depending on the concentration:
On the second place on popularity and control in cosmetics, the milk is acid. Also, like glycolic acid, this substance is a good scrub-action and helps the signs of Chrono - and photoaging eliminate. The degree of effectiveness of the lactic acid is a bit less, but the risk of a possible irritation of your application below.
Lactic acid is considered to be physiological for the skin. Its molecules on an Atom more molecules of glycolic acid so that you slower and more uniform penetration into the Epidermis and destruction of the intercellular connections. The lactic acid Wednesday prevents the development of pathogenic bacteria, increases the lipid coat and strengthens the skin immunity. These properties, together with less Aggression, the application of lactic acid to justify the cosmetic on patients with sensitive problem skin. Their concentration in the ranges for the home care of 3.5 to 10 percent.
Succinic acid in cosmetics is called life-giving elixir for Mature skin. It brightens up the excess Pigment, nourishes and smoothes the skin. Succinic acid - a powerful catalyst for the synthesis of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) plays an important role in the cellular metabolism. Thanks to these properties of amber acid in cosmetics programs, funding for home care for the aging skin in many Anti-aging. The source of the life-giving power for the hair.
Lipoic acid in cosmetics is not exfoliant. It is regarded as a powerful antioxidant, the vast activity of the broad spectrum of free radicals - one of the main causes of skin aging, appearance of wrinkles and Pigmentation. High efficiency lipoic acid due to its ability to dissolve in water and in a Lipid environment, which distinguishes it from many other anti-oxidative substances, in particular Vitamin C and e at the same time, it is not blocking their effect, but rather strengthened.
Lipoic acid (Vitamin N) can prevent the process of glycation, in which the connection of the fibers of the collagen, with the molecules of Glucose and lowers the activity of the elastin. You repeatedly accelerates the metabolism of glucose and slows down the deformation of the skin. In the case of early access to the beautician and regular use of funds with lipoic acid reversibility of the process of glycation and reducing the signs of skin aging was observed.
Lipoic acid is also used in cosmetics successfully applied in the treatment of scars, acne, procedures, and consequences of rosacea. It is the activity of the sebaceous normalizes glands, reduces the severity of the pores of the skin, regenerates cell membranes and protects the DNA against external influences of the environment.
Strong Peeling - the main advantage of salicylic acid in cosmetics. This acid is the most common BHA, is to destroy the dissolution of the connection between the Corneal cells even in the depth of the pores, i.e. comedones. In Parallel, it is as a derivative of Aspirin reduces inflammation, infectious processes, reduces and accelerates the healing. The entirety of the anti-bacterial properties and the effect of deep cleansing is the use of salicylic acid in cosmetics to work with oily problem skin. The concentration of salicylic acid in creams, tonics for use in the home should not be percent more than two.
First and foremost, the acids in the cosmetic Salon are considered to be Scrubs.
1. Exfoliation and superficial peeling AHA acids
The connection hyperkeratosis with many skin diseases, it has been demonstrated, even in the 80s of the last century the first scientific research of the AHA. Removal of the old Horny layer acids are particularly safe procedure. The properly selected concentration of Alpha-hydroacids do not cause burns on the skin, tender and destroyed desmosomes - strong intercellular connection of keratinized cells.
Later, proven ability to have AHA acids penetrate deeper in the corneal layer and to stimulate the active processes in the skin. This is due to the resolution of the dense couplings microcirculatory river bed, in the deep layers of the skin, other active ingredients in the final stage of the process. penetrate more easily
The effect of the peels and the depth of penetration of the acid depends on its concentration and pH-value:
Small concentrations of acids are for private use is permitted, the medium and high than drugs, the medical aesthetician on the premises and are used for professional treatments in the clinic or the Salon.
Positive changes of Peeling AHA acids not come immediately. A noticeable effect of 6-10 treatments are required with a frequency of once every 7-14 days. However, the result of the course, skin time be completely replaced without serious Rehabilitation, flaking, and severe post-gluma risks.
2. BHA peels
Scrubs with salicylic acid are widely used for the treatment of acne, scars after acne, the skin orientation of the Reliefs. This acid is in the stocks of powerful Anti-Aging peels, in some cases, serves as the head of retinoic. Salicylic acid Peeling - a real salvation for people with 4 and 5 skin photo types. Acts as a mild exfoliant, it causes no post-gluma complications in people dark-skinned.
3. Resources-Acids Peels
The mechanism of action of hydroacids do not allow them to penetrate into the middle layer of the Epidermis even in the case of an increase in the concentration. So for more depth renewal of the skin use other types of acids. Trihloruksusnaya acid (TCA) coagulates protein, the controlled etching. In recovery there is an active Regeneration and Proliferation of cells of the Epidermis and the Dermis. Pure retinoic acid - a derivative of Vitamin A in the process of the detachment interacts with fibroblasts, increasing their activity and thus the synthesis of Elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid.
Small concentration of acids in the complex professional esthetic care, and cosmetics for the home. The regular use of such funds is a gentle, but steady development.
Fatty acids thanks to the nourishing properties are increasingly the basis for the dense creams. Amino acids - the constituents of proteins, are important for the production of active components of the dermal Matrix and is suitable for all skin types. Gentle Form retinoid acid creams and serums for rejuvenation, treatment of acne, rosacea and Dermatitis.
Hydroxy acids are helpful at any age and ranks in the formulations of creams, Tonics, and serums. Salicylic acid is on the skin, often used in cosmetics for young people, for oily and problem.
Regularly scrub after a 40 - requisite condition of age-related retirement. A prerequisite for the use of drugs with hydroacids - protection against the sun's rays, so that many of them contain UV filters.
Funds with a low content of acids is recommended, under the supervision of a physician. You purchase easier for the cosmetologist, the program of the aesthetic correction. Many professional products are both in the Salon and at home, therefore, the supply of acids to control in the skin will be more convenient.